Ratheesh KrishnaVadhyar (![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif){kind=small} ratheesh) wrote,@ 2008-07-04 22:46:00 |
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Kumbakonam
The Kumbakonam railway station is a small one, and when we get out of the station and look at the surroundings, we get a feeling that we have landed at some place a couple of decades back. A few auto-rickshaws were parked outside, and we negotiated with one guy to take us around Kumbakonam and show a few temples (there are some 20 temples around Kumbakonam) for 200 rupees. Our return bus to Bangalore was at 8PM, so we had roughly 4 hours with us.
First, we went to Darasuram, to watch the 12th century Chola temples dedicated to Shiva and Parvathi, constructed by Raja Raja II. Darasuram is a village four kilometers from Kumbakonam. The archeology department has maintained this place very well. We found many people relaxing in the beautiful lawns surrounding the two temples. In front of the temple complex, there is a damaged gopuram. Only the base of the gopuram remains now. Looking at the size of this base, I guess it might have been a pretty tall gopuram.
Airavatheshwara temple, dedicated to Shiva, looks a bit like Brihadeshwara temple, though the tower over the sanctum is much shorter. There is a mandapam with several intricately carved pillars in front of the sanctum, and this mandapam is built in the shape of a chariot drawn by horses. The idol in the temple is still being worshiped, and the temple opens at 4PM for darshana. We thought we would be able to enter the temple only at 4, and were about to sit in the lawn, when one person standing near the entrance of the temple clapped hands to call us inside. It seems we could enter the temple any time, though the inner sanctum would open only at 4. The inner temple compound is a peaceful place, with not a soul to disturb you with noise or chatter. We roamed around for some time, trying to speculate about the Puranic stories that are being illustrated in the carvings on the pillars. The tower over the sanctum has remains of colorful murals on it. I guess it was a very colorful structure during older days.
After some time, the pujari called us, and we had darshana and came out. The Parvathi temple is adjacent to Airavatheshwara Temple, and it is architecturally very similar to the latter. We had a quick darshana there too.
From Darasuram, we went back to Kumbakonam, and had quick darshanas at three temples there - Kumbheshwara and Nageshwara temples dedicated to Shiva and Sarangapani temple dedicated to Vishnu. There are many shops on the narrow lanes surrounding these temples, and we were amused to see a huge pile of agasthya cheera being sold by an elderly lady sitting in front of Sarangapani temple, for 1 rupee a bundle. We bought 10 bundles from her. From a bookshop, I got a small book on the history of Kumbakonam temples. Somewhere in these narrow lanes, the house where Srinivasa Ramanujan stayed is located. I wanted to visit that house (I guess it is converted to a museum now), but we didn't get time for that.
At 7PM, our auto-rickshaw driver dropped us at Kumbakonam bus-stand. We found a Saravana Bhavan restaurant close to the bus stand, and entered it with great expectations. However, I was disappointed seeing the tables covered with flies and the dirty wash basin. The attitude of the person supplying food too was not very pleasing. We quickly had some parathas from there and came out. Then, we went to another restaurant nearby to have coffee (I liked it so much that I asked for a second cup).
The KSRTC bus to Bangalore started at 8:30PM. It was a miserable journey. The National Highway to Bangalore was under maintenance, and at many places, there were no dividers in the road. Every now and then, I would wake up from my sleep hearing a big sound, as the bus passed over a speed-breaker at full speed. Then the bus would shake violently and move forward as if it has lost control. I could then see the headlights of a vehicle coming right against us in full speed, and feel the adrenaline rushing from my stomach, thinking that all is over. Then the driver would apply breaks quickly, and both the vehicles would halt, leaving just a few inches between them. This happened several times, and finally I gave up the idea of sleeping. I looked around and found that most of the other passengers were too in a similar situation. At some place, the driver stopped the bus and slept for a few hours. I hoped that a relaxing nap would make him more alert when he drives again, but I was mistaken. Eventually, we reached Bangalore at 9AM, four hours later than the scheduled arrival time.
The Kumbakonam railway station is a small one, and when we get out of the station and look at the surroundings, we get a feeling that we have landed at some place a couple of decades back. A few auto-rickshaws were parked outside, and we negotiated with one guy to take us around Kumbakonam and show a few temples (there are some 20 temples around Kumbakonam) for 200 rupees. Our return bus to Bangalore was at 8PM, so we had roughly 4 hours with us.
First, we went to Darasuram, to watch the 12th century Chola temples dedicated to Shiva and Parvathi, constructed by Raja Raja II. Darasuram is a village four kilometers from Kumbakonam. The archeology department has maintained this place very well. We found many people relaxing in the beautiful lawns surrounding the two temples. In front of the temple complex, there is a damaged gopuram. Only the base of the gopuram remains now. Looking at the size of this base, I guess it might have been a pretty tall gopuram.
Airavatheshwara temple, dedicated to Shiva, looks a bit like Brihadeshwara temple, though the tower over the sanctum is much shorter. There is a mandapam with several intricately carved pillars in front of the sanctum, and this mandapam is built in the shape of a chariot drawn by horses. The idol in the temple is still being worshiped, and the temple opens at 4PM for darshana. We thought we would be able to enter the temple only at 4, and were about to sit in the lawn, when one person standing near the entrance of the temple clapped hands to call us inside. It seems we could enter the temple any time, though the inner sanctum would open only at 4. The inner temple compound is a peaceful place, with not a soul to disturb you with noise or chatter. We roamed around for some time, trying to speculate about the Puranic stories that are being illustrated in the carvings on the pillars. The tower over the sanctum has remains of colorful murals on it. I guess it was a very colorful structure during older days.
After some time, the pujari called us, and we had darshana and came out. The Parvathi temple is adjacent to Airavatheshwara Temple, and it is architecturally very similar to the latter. We had a quick darshana there too.
Airavatheshwara temple at Darasuram
Mandapam in front of Airavatheshwara temple at Darasuram
Damaged gopuram in front of Airavatheshwara temple at Darasuram
The tall gopuram of Sarangapani temple, Kumbakonam
From Darasuram, we went back to Kumbakonam, and had quick darshanas at three temples there - Kumbheshwara and Nageshwara temples dedicated to Shiva and Sarangapani temple dedicated to Vishnu. There are many shops on the narrow lanes surrounding these temples, and we were amused to see a huge pile of agasthya cheera being sold by an elderly lady sitting in front of Sarangapani temple, for 1 rupee a bundle. We bought 10 bundles from her. From a bookshop, I got a small book on the history of Kumbakonam temples. Somewhere in these narrow lanes, the house where Srinivasa Ramanujan stayed is located. I wanted to visit that house (I guess it is converted to a museum now), but we didn't get time for that.
At 7PM, our auto-rickshaw driver dropped us at Kumbakonam bus-stand. We found a Saravana Bhavan restaurant close to the bus stand, and entered it with great expectations. However, I was disappointed seeing the tables covered with flies and the dirty wash basin. The attitude of the person supplying food too was not very pleasing. We quickly had some parathas from there and came out. Then, we went to another restaurant nearby to have coffee (I liked it so much that I asked for a second cup).
The KSRTC bus to Bangalore started at 8:30PM. It was a miserable journey. The National Highway to Bangalore was under maintenance, and at many places, there were no dividers in the road. Every now and then, I would wake up from my sleep hearing a big sound, as the bus passed over a speed-breaker at full speed. Then the bus would shake violently and move forward as if it has lost control. I could then see the headlights of a vehicle coming right against us in full speed, and feel the adrenaline rushing from my stomach, thinking that all is over. Then the driver would apply breaks quickly, and both the vehicles would halt, leaving just a few inches between them. This happened several times, and finally I gave up the idea of sleeping. I looked around and found that most of the other passengers were too in a similar situation. At some place, the driver stopped the bus and slept for a few hours. I hoped that a relaxing nap would make him more alert when he drives again, but I was mistaken. Eventually, we reached Bangalore at 9AM, four hours later than the scheduled arrival time.
